Topshelf, TTDI

Topshelf is located in the quieter side of the pub scene in TTDI. The good news? No rowdy crowd and usually, plenty of parking. It is also popular among families and office workers.





As the brainchild of Christopher Yee, this outlet's menu has strong French influences, with a sprinkling of Spanish and Asian here and there. Very notable once you step into the restaurant is the open kitchen concept. Full ceiling-to-floor glass separates diners from the kitchen, enabling the former to view their food being prepared. Rest assured, hygiene is pretty top-notch!

Chris started the Chef's Table Menu in September together with sous chef Gary, and it garnered a lot of positive response, even earning the attention of boy-about-town, Sean from Eat Drink KL. 




I attended the 3rd series of the Chef's Table, with high expectations. This time, however, Chris and Gary passed the baton, or shall I say, the skillet, to Han & Marc. The outlet was closed off to other patrons, eliciting an air of exclusivity and intimacy between the two chefs and the 14 gourmands. The layout of the restaurant was changed slightly to create a stage of sorts for the chefs, with the gourmands seated around them.




Of course, like a regular French dining place, Topshelf churns out its own bread. We were presented with amazingly fluffy ciabatta slices with a fresh lime aioli. I loved the fact that they steered clear of the average diner's butter and went with something edgy and unexpected, and more importantly, got it spot on. For someone who isn't quite a bread person, I was left wanting more of that, preferably warmed.




Also passed around in flutes was a chilled sparkling elderflower drink. Sweet and bubbly, this contained no alcohol, bringing out a delighted sound of approval from the only child at the table.





And then, there was a fragrant sweetness that permeated the air. The chefs started pouring out a tan-coloured broth into clear glass teacups. It was an aromatic Lobster Bisque with saffron foam that we were being served. The broth contained a basic recipe of onion, celery and carrot, which was then enhanced with tomato paste and brandy. I can only imagine how good it smelt while being simmered down to the creamy portions we were given. 




There was also a deep fried prawn head placed beside the cup, as though the chef thought that he had to replace what would have been a biscotti. This piece of head which most people would chuck aside, ladies and gentlemen, was heavenly. It was crunchy and so wonderfully seasoned, reminiscent of seafood over a barbecue grill. 





The salmon, salt & horseradish was a carefully crafted appetizer that reminded me of Salmon Gravlax combined with an Asian touch of a cold Szechuan starter. 




Chefs Han & Marc designed this, I am sure, with the intent to tickle all 5 taste buds. The sourdough shard was a little too hard but the secret to this dish was the brining of the vegetables. The cucumber and carrot were thinly sliced with a mandoline, and flavoured with a thin white wine vinegar with added spices including cardamom and surprise, surprise, a splash of Patron to create acidity in the dish. I found the dish averagely acidic while my other companion thought it too much for his enjoyment. This tartness served well to neutralize the lightly smoked salmon which was seasoned with beetroot, dill and lemon zest overnight. Furthermore, the little puffs of horseradish cream lent a robust pop to the dish. 





Next up was the Canard à l'orange, a very typical French dish. 





The piece of duck breast was brined in-house and came with orange slices poached in Cointreau and grenadine syrup. This dish also contained elements of five spice powder to give it a slightly Asian angle. I found this only average, having had my expectations adjusted.





The chefs had fish on the menu too. Using halibut, Chef Han explained that it was beautifully textured but lacked flavour, which they enhanced using clam broth. 




To contrast with the rather succulent fish, the chefs had an interesting mix of mushrooms that offered crunch and an earthy taste which paired surprisingly well with that of the seafood flavours. A small amount of mash also gave way for some creaminess in the dish. I am quite partial to mushroom, and enjoyed the truffle oil that was drizzled into the mushroom crunch to go with the fish. One can imagine, some creaminess from the mash, a bit of crispness of the fish skin, the moist fish meat and an explosion of mushroom and truffle oil!






The final main dish was belly of lamb, marinaded in garlic and black pepper in a vacuum. Then, the meat is cooked sous vide at 75◦C for 18 hours. Consequently, the texture of the meat is amazingly tender and full of flavour without stripping away the natural moisture of the meat. The mint foam that accompanied the lamb was light and refreshing. 



I also must commend the finger of fried potato. It was a small portion of carb for the dish but the herb seasoning was spot on!







Lastly, dessert was a feast for both the eyes and stomach. A chocolate-coated brioche was served alongside an Irish parfait. Atop the brioche was a gorgeous sprinkling of edible flowers which of course, looked fantastic against the dark chocolate. 





The parfait had some calamansi cream and white chocolate ganache and I truly loved it. The parfait was thin and made a delicious, delicate casing to hold the filling. It was the icing on top of the cake, if I may say so myself.




The bill came up to just slightly over RM 150 per person including a bottle of still water. If you would like to pair the meal with wine, that option is also available. I am not sure how long Chris will hold his Chef's Table Menu for, but one thing's for sure - the 12 spots (per session) get filled up quickly. Should the fresh quality ingredients Topshelf uses not entice you enough, perhaps the chefs will. Here's a teaser of them:




Chris, Han, Anwar, Marc

Serious in the kitchen and friendly on the floor, combined with quality food. Topshelf gets the "Kau Tim Lah" stamp! Also, Topshelf is having a Christmas Menu on 24th & 25th December. Do join them!

Topshelf TTDI

Address
61, Lorong Rahim Kajai,
Taman Tun Dr. Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
(behind Sid's)

Tel
03-7727 7277


Email Address
info@topshelf.com.my

Facebook
Topshelf KL

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